Summer
At long last, it’s harvest time! From early November, I stop watering my garlic, and start to check the crop daily. The tell-tale sign is the number of green leaves on the plant: each green leaf becomes an outer bulb skin during the curing process.
Note that if you wish to cure your garlic (as opposed to eating it straight away), prepare a space to hang/store your garlic before you harvest (see “Curing” below for tips).
WHEN TO HARVEST
Harvest early-season garlics, like the Turban group, when there are 4.5 green leaves left on the plant
Harvest mid-season garlics, like Creoles, when there are 3 green leaves left on the plant
Harvest late-season garlics, like Standard Purple Stripes, when there are 3.5 green leaves left on the plant
Avoid harvesting in the rain, or near any rain events. It is a good idea to stop watering for two weeks before you think you might harvest. This is truly the only time I ever actually hope for no rain. And whilst my life might be (a little) dictated by the garlic, feel free to choose a harvest time that fits in with your life commitments, it is a rather tough and accommodating plant.
CURING YOUR GARLIC
I like to prepare and hang the garlic straight after harvest. Others in cooler climes (read days below 30°C) can leave their plants out in the field to start the drying process for about 24hrs.
Prepare the garlic for hanging and hang in a cool, unlit, well ventilated space. This may be your verandah, garage, pantry, cellar, or spare room. After eight months of growing, the first 14 days after harvest are the most crucial for curing the bulbs to ensure their good storage.
Prepare the garlic by rubbing off any dry skins and dead leaves, removing any soil on the bulb, and cutting off the roots either entirely or very very short. By reducing the amount of unnecessary moisture-laden material on the plant, the plant will cure more effectively and ensure longer shelf life.
At the same time, I like to keep the green leaves on the plant to enable the bulbs to draw down as much nutrient (hence flavour) as possible during this time. So the bundles are small and very well spaced when hung. The garlic is hung on drying racks and air-dried for a minimum of four weeks. I check on it daily to confirm things are progressing well and there is no evidence of disease or pests. This is a very risky time for the crop, as pests and disease can attack and it is possible to lose months of work.
PREPARE FOR THE NEW CROP
At the end of summer, generally in February/March, start the bed preparation for the next year’s crop.
I start by doing a soil pH test so I can assess what I need to add. I am aiming for a pH of 6.5-7.5, so slightly acidic through to neutral. I am aiming for a rich vibrant dark soil, teeming with worms and microbial activity. I use a range of different manures, household compost, microbial mixtures (for eg: EM1 Bokashi), and pH corrections or specific nutrient additions to help improve my soils, and I really work them into the soil. My last tip. If the weather is dry, and summer often is, you may have to water the area to ensure the additives breakdown and the microbes stay active to ensure a thriving soil. Everything needs water to survive.